There'll Always Be An England!

My wife's cousin Alan is a real prince of a guy. Perhaps that's why, twenty years ago, he decided to move to England, where the people were already familiar with princes...or maybe it was to escape his Clement cousins, many of whom can be royal pains, but are in no other sense regal. I suspect it was just because Alan is smart, adventurous, and knew a good deal when he saw it.

Alan is a high school teacher for the U.S. Department of Defense. For the last two decades he has taught the children of U.S. military personnel on bases in England. When he first started this adventure, Alan was young, unattached, and a lover of travel, so it seemed like the perfect fit. Now he is a little less young, still unattached (but that might change soon), and still an avid traveller. On his frequent return trips home, he would often invite family members to visit him in England. Maybe he was just being polite and didn't really think anyone would ever take him up on his offer. If that's the case, he made a big mistake.

As a teacher of English literature, Ann has long been an Anglophile. We had visited the U.K. separately before getting married, and had travelled there together on two different trips since being married, but our schedules never allowed us to connect with cousin Alan. Ann always thought how nice it would be if several of the first cousins could "cross the pond" to visit him at the same time, but circumstances never permitted it. But then, in the summer of 2006, that would all change.

Let me state from the start that I never thought it would happen, and I was proved wrong. The Clement cousins are a head-strong group of rugged individualists (this is putting a polite spin on it). Getting them all to go in one direction at once is like trying to herd cats. So when Ann made plans for us to visit Alan, I was shocked when Joan, Darrelyn, Dana, and Linda Rae all were able to follow suit. Our itineraries were each different, and we would each be in the country for different lengths of time, but for four glorious days we would all be at Alan's home, in the town of Marlow, in the Thames valley, about an hour west of London. In addition to the five girl cousins, there would be four husbands (me, Darrelyn's husband Boolie, Linda Rae's husband Steve, and Dana's husband Darrell), two college students (Linda Rae and Steve's sons, Ben and Matt), and one six-year-old (Dana and Darrel's son Connor). The Clements were all excited. I, on the other hand was frightened, not for my own sake, but for the sake of England itself. I had read how, down through history, the brave resolve of the English people had survived Roman occupation, Viking invasion, Norman conquest, the Spanish Armada, and the Blitz. I was not so certain, however, that England could survive a full frontal assault by my in-laws.

Before telling you how it all ended, let me digress a moment to discuss our travel experiences in the U.K. more generally. What a truly great country it is! Ann and I have spent more time in the U.K. than in any other foreign country, but we still feel as if we have barely scratched the surface.

London is the starting point for most tourists visiting the U.K. for obvious reasons. It is one of the world's great cities. Perhaps due to England's history of prominence in world affairs, being in London makes one feel as if he is truly at the center of the universe. There is so much to see that the visitor risks being overwhelmed. For this reason, I heartily recommend one of the hop-on, hop-off buses to get started. Be sure to get one with a live guide for the best value. Some buses come with a recorded program and earphones, but this is mainly to provide commentary to foreign language speakers. The live guides are funny, entertaining, and enthusiastic about their city. They will point out all the attractions, give interesting background information, and answer any questions you might have. I would normally recommend staying on the bus for one complete circuit to get your bearings and decide what attractions you want to see. Then, on the next circuit you can debark at your chosen attraction and hop back on when the next bus comes along. Buses make their rounds all day, and one ticket is good for the entire day. You might want to make an exception if your plans include any scheduled event, the most common being the changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace. If you want to see the changing of the guard (and I recommend it), be sure to get to Buckingham Palace early to reserve a good spot. The good viewing areas fill up fast.

Another good way to see London is to take a cruise on the Thames. The tour boats leave the dock at Westminster and travel up and downstream with a running commentary provided by a live guide. Some of the best views of Tower Bridge, the Tower of London, the Palace of Westminster, and Big Ben are from the river.

Finally, even though it may seem like a kitzchy thing to do, try a ride on the London Eye. The views from the clear plastic pods across the Thames allow you to take in many of London's prominent attractions in one sweeping vista. Connor had a great time identifying the various landmarks with the help of the handouts we were given with our tickets.

There is, of course, much more of England to see outside of London. During our various stays in England, Ann and I have visited Kent, the Cotswolds, the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, Stratford, York, Leeds, Cornwall, Devon, Bath, Plymouth, and many other areas as well. We have also toured portions of Wales and Scotland. In future updates I'll discuss these areas in detail, but for now, let me return to our story of the Clement invasion...

On the day that we all converged on Alan's house in Marlow, Alan was not at home. He and a friend were spectators at the British Open. We proceeded to make camp as best we could, but even though Alan's house is roomy, the large number of guests stretched the facilities to the limit. For sleeping, we had to utilize every bed and sofa, and even to inflate a few air mattresses. The bathroom situation was also dicey, but invading armies should expect a few minor deprivations, I guess. Our plan was to stay in Marlow for the day, then to tour London en masse the next day. By the time we arrived back in Marlow, Alan would be back. On the next day, we planned a barbecue with some of Alan's teacher friends (Duke, Fredo, and Kerry) and his landlord, Tony. We would spend the following day (a Sunday) watching Alan play cricket with his local club; then, on our final day together we planned an outing to Windsor.

Marlow is a very pleasant, prosperous, medium-sized town. It is not particularly famous for anything, and most of the town is "new" by English standards. It is only a few miles from Henley where a very tony regatta is held on the Thames each year. Mary Shelley lived in Marlow for a short time, and it was here that she completed her most famous literary work, Frankenstein. There is a very pretty bridge spanning the Thames in the center of town, and a typical Anglican Church, parts of which are very old, but most of which was rebuilt in the 1800s. The Compleat Angler by Isaak Walton was also written in Marlow, and there is a very nice hotel on the river with the same name. Alan had become a member of the rowing club, which resides in a large building on the river near the bridge. Marlow's high street was a busy place, filled with tidy shops, and there were a number of good pubs. Conveniently, a train station was located within walking distance from Alan's house. After exploring Marlow, the gang retired early, as we knew that tomorrow in London would be a busy day.


We arose early for our sojourn into London. We had to if we were all going to get a shot at the bathroom before leaving. Remarkably, everyone managed to get assembled on time for our short walk to the train station, and then we were off! When we arrived at Paddington Station, we got our bus tickets, but traveled only as far as Buckingham Palace, where we staked out positions to watch the changing of the guard. Perched atop Darrell's shoulders, Connor got the best view. After the ceremony, rather than wait for the next bus, we hiked the short distance through St. James Park to Westminster. Here we toured Westminster Abbey, got photos of Big Ben and Parliament, stopped for a hotdog lunch on the banks of the Thames, then enjoyed a ride on the London Eye. We caught the bus again at Westminster and stayed on for almost a complete circuit until debarking at the Tower of London, where we spent the rest of our day. Obviously there was much more to do in London, but this made for a full day. Many of the gang slept on the train ride back to Marlow. Alan was there to welcome us back. I am only sorry I didn't get to see the look on his face when he entered his home to see the mess we had left it in, but, like a good soldier and polite cousin, he didn't let it show.

On the following day, Darrell, Dana, Connor, Darrelyn, and Boolie returned to London for more sightseeing. The rest of us decided to stay in Marlow and help Alan prepare for the barbecue. Alan has a great group of friends, and our barbecue was a fun and festive affair. We were even able to forgive the fact that Duke is an Ole Miss fan. Fredo's younger daughter Mari, a vivacious two-year-old charmer and natural comedienne, managed to keep us all entertained, and England was having an unseasonably warm spell, which made us Southerners feel right at home. As usual, the food prepared by Ann and Joan was great. We partied well into the night, since the next day (Sunday) would be another day of leisure.

Most of the crew slept late the next day, but by noon we all assembled for a short walk into town for "Sunday Roast" at one of the local pubs. English food is often disparaged, but Ann and I have always found it delicious, particularly the type of food served in pubs. After the meal, we hiked along the banks of the Thames to the local public park where Alan was already suited up for his game of cricket. We had been given a crash course in the rules of cricket by our English hosts at the barbecue on the previous night. I'm still not sure I understand it, but the friendly Brits on the sidelines were good about explaining things to us as the game progressed. I'm still not sure exactly how well Alan played, but I know he stayed at bat for a long time, which I think is a good thing. It was a treat to be in and among the locals in a place not heavily populated with tourists. We felt as if we were experiencing the real England. We returned to Alan's and retired early, knowing that our last day in Windsor would be a busy one.


Windsor was only a thirty-minute train ride from Marlow. In addition to the castle that serves as a major residence for the royals, there is a charming surrounding town with great shopping, and many restaurants with nice views overlooking the river. Eton College is located there and is well worth a visit. We enjoyed an outdoor lunch on the banks of the Thames, then descended on the castle where we spent most of the day. Windsor Castle is the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world. William the Conqueror chose the site and had a fortress built here on a strategic bluff overlooking the Thames, about one day's march from the Tower of London. It was designed to protect the city from attacks from the west. Various monarchs have added and altered the original structure through the centuries. It is truly magnificent.

Ann and I have toured numerous castles in the United Kingdom. It is difficult to say which is the "best," but Windsor is definitely one not to miss. The main feature, the round tower, was built by Henry II in the 1170s, replacing the original wooden structure built by William the Conqueror. St. George's hall, a traditional venue for state banquets, is 55 meters long with a table capable of seating 160 guests. St. George's Chapel, begun by Edward IV and completed by Henry VIII, is considered one of the best examples of medieval architecture in the world. Ten British monarchs lie buried there, and several royal weddings have taken place there including that of Prince Edward and Miss Sophie Rhys-Jones. In 1992 a major fire occurred at Windsor, beginning in the private chapel and eventually involving over 100 rooms, comprising about 20% of the castle. The massive restoration effort over the next five years was completed ahead of schedule without any cost to taxpayers.

On the train ride back to Marlow we reflected on everything we had seen over the last few days. All were in agreement that England is a wonderful place, and we all vowed to return to see more as soon as possible. As we mentally prepared ourselves for our flight back home, I felt great relief that, once again, England had survived. The Clement invasion of 2006 might not be remembered by historians in the same way as the Norman invasion of 1066. Nevertheless, knowing what I know about my in-laws, I can now rest easily, secure in the knowledge that there'll always be England!

Here's a tongue-in-cheek video...enjoy!

"Incontinence on the Continent" or "Wet Your Pants In France"

My wife Ann has always wanted to visit France. The Clement family has its roots there, though its exact point of origin is still a bone of contention. Separating fact from fiction in Clement family lore is often difficult, if not impossible, but most family members agree that three Clement brothers (Fergus, Stanislaus, and Theodore) immigrated to the U.S. in the early 1800s to avoid conscription into Napoleon's army. I should note, however, that this description of events was not popular with at least one family grande dame, Ann's great Aunt Lessie. Aunt Lessie was infamous for her stalwart belief that Clement family members could do no wrong, often in the face of overwhelming evidence to the contrary. When the story of the Clement brothers was told at one family gathering, she characterized it as a "damn lie," declaring angrily that "Ain't no Clement man ever dodged the draft!"

Whether the story is true or not, I have no idea, but regardless, we eagerly anticipated and prepared for our Trafalgar coach tour of France for months in advance. Ann thought about doing some research to try to dig up some long-lost relatives, but I strongly discouraged it. My reasoning was clear: As "colorful" as they might be, at least her current relatives in the U.S. have had two centuries for their gene pool to be diluted. What if we found that their homeland was some isolated village where family members had inbred for twelve centuries? Imagine all those "colorful" family traits distilled and concentrated through the ages! That thought was enough to scare her off.

I was also a little apprehensive for another reason. Having just recovered from (very successful) surgery for prostate cancer, I was feeling well, but still not always confident about bladder control. I was afraid that when a Frenchman whispered, "Oui, oui, monsieur!" that I might automatically look down to check for accidents. Nevertheless, (and I hope this doesn't constitute "too much information") I armed myself with the best space-age incontinence paraphenalia available on elderstore.com and hoped for the best. Ann, sympathetic as always, titled this trip "Incontinence on the Continent" or "Wet Your Pants in France."

Ann's first cousin, Joan, accompanied us on this Odyssey which lasted two weeks. Our trip began and ended in Paris, making one big clockwise loop around the country. I don't think we ran into any lost Clement relations, but we had one great time. Our itinerary is described below:



Except for a quick trip to Notre Dame on our first evening, we didn't see much of Paris on the front end of the tour. That would be saved for the end. We left Paris early the next morning, heading south toward Burgundy. Our first stop was the pretty Burgundian town of Beaune. Here we toured ancient wine cellars and got our first taste of fine French burgundy.

After leaving Beaune, we continued to head south toward Lyons. Lyons is located at the confluence of the Rhone and Soane Rivers. We had a chance to see the beautiful cathedral located there, and were treated to a delicious meal in one of the city's best restaurants.


On our next morning, we left Lyons and headed south toward the region of Provence. Many tourists would say that Provence is the most beautiful region of France, although my vote still goes to the Loire valley. We were able to spend two nights in Nice, and although the weather was not ideal, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay here. We were a little early for the summer rush. For the most part the beaches were still deserted. But it was easy to see why the area became a favorite haunt for the "beautiful people" in the early part of the twentieth century. If you travel to Nice, be sure to get up early enough to see the charming flower and vegetable market set up each morning just a block from the beach. Also be sure to check out the nearby medieval fortified hill towns of Eze and St. Paul de Vince, or visit Cannes where the annual Film Festival is held. Monte Carlo, in the principality of Monaco is well-known for its beautiful harbor, its profligate wealth, its high-stakes casino, and the Grand Prix auto race which runs right through the middle or town. Superstar Elton John has a villa in scenic Cap Ferrat just down the street (we didn't get an invitation to visit it).

Leaving Nice, we headed west toward the Pyrenees and the Spanish border. We enjoyed our morning stop for lunch in Avignon, where we saw the Papal Palace. A series of French Popes ruled from here during the early 14th century when political pressures resulted in a split Papacy. After leaving Avignon, we headed for our next overnight stop, the medieval fortress city of Carcassonne. The Romans were the first to build a fortification there about 100 B.C. Numerous additions to the fortifications have been made by various groups down through the remaining centuries. The city was a stronghold for the Cathars in the Albigensian Crusades, but eventually fell to the forces of Simon de Montfort. During the Hundred Years' War, the Black Prince was unable to capture it. The restoration of Carcassonne has not been without controversy. The slate roofs, for example, look nice but would not have been seen during medieval times. The shops within the fortress selling cheap trinkets such as plastic swords and shields are turn-offs to some purists who think it gives the place an aura of phoniness. Nevertheless, the tourists seem to like it if the crammed parking lot is any indication.



After an overnight stay in Carcassonne we continued to head west through the lovely pilgrimage site at Lourdes to the Atlantic coast resort town of Biarritz. Biarritz was a favorite vacation spot of Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, who had a palace built there. It is now a five-star hotel. Biarritz lost some of its luster as a resort town in the early part of the 20th century with the rising popularity of the French Riviera, but is still beautiful.

From Biarritz we headed north toward Bordeaux, a pretty town at the mouth of the Garonne River, and capital of the wine region that bears the same name. After touring the city proper, we visited a local vineyard to get a first-hand look at the methods used to grow the vines, harvest the grapes, and make the wine. We also toured the picturesque wine village of St. Emilion. This was Joan's favorite part of the trip.


Next, we headed east along the Dordogne valley, in what was to be one of the most scenic parts of the trip. Villages along the Dordogne river are built directly into the steep cliffs, and many ancient cave dwellings can be found here as well. Our original plan was to take a cruise on the Dordogne which would have taken us past several of these settlements. Unfortunately, the water was too high to allow river traffic, so we had to settle for visiting just one, the village of La Roche-Gageac. Although we were somewhat disappointed that our cruise was cancelled, seeing La Roche-Gageac up close was a special treat. It is consistently voted the prettiest village in France, and it is easy to see why.

When we left the Dordogne valley, we headed north on our way toward another of France's major rivers, the Loire. Before we could get there, though, we had to pass through the city of Limoges for the obligatory gift shop stop. Fortunately, Ann was not much in need of porcelain, so our checking account emerged relatively unscathed.


The Loire valley is home to some of France's most magnificent castles or chateaux. It would take months to visit them all, but we were treated to a tour of one of the most spectacular, Chenonceau. Chateau de Chenonceau was built on an old mill site on the River Cher some time in the 11th century, or perhaps earlier. The original structure burned, and a second was destroyed before the present castle was built between 1515 and 1521. Chenonceau became infamous when it was given by King Henri II to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. After Henri's death his strong-willed and jealous wife, Catherine de Medici, who ruled as regent, expelled Diane and adopted the castle as her favorite residence.

Leaving the Loire valley, we headed north toward Brittany and one of France's most popular tourist attractions, Mont St. Michel. Mont St. Michel is a rocky tidal island located at the border between Normandy and Brittany on France's northern coast, near the mouth of the Couesnon River. It was previously connected to the mainland only by a thin natural bridge that was covered at high tide. Modern developments have changed the topography so that the land bridge is now a true causeway and is no longer flooded. Dikes were built that formed pasture from areas that were formerly coastal plain, bringing the coastline much closer to the island and destroying some of its former charm. Nevertheless, the sight of Mont St. Michel rising suddenly from the flat coastal plain is still breathtaking.

From Mont St. Michel, we began to head northeast toward the beaches of Normandy where thousands of lives were sacrificed in the cause of liberty. Before visiting Omaha Beach, we toured Pointe Du Hoc. Pointe Du Hoc is a clifftop location about 6 miles west of Omaha Beach where the Germans had installed a fortified battery of guns which would have posed a serious threat to Allied landings on both Omaha and Utah Beaches. Even though the area had been subjected to repeated bombardment, intelligence reports suggested that the fortifications were too strong and would require attack by ground forces. The U.S. Second Ranger Battalion was given the task of destroying the stronghold early on D-Day. Prior to the attack, the guns were moved approximately one mile inland. Even so, the concrete fortifications which were still intact would have posed a major threat to the D-Day assault had they been occupied by artillery forward observers. Despite initial setbacks, the cliffs were scaled and the stronghold assaulted successfully. The guns were located in their new position and destroyed. The major losses occurred after the initial assault when the Rangers, determined to hold this vital ground, fended off several German counter-assaults while still cut off from reinforcements. At the end of the two-day action, the initial force of 225 men had been reduced to only about 90 who could still fight. Six miles west at Omaha Beach stands the dignified memorial to all who lost their lives there. The pristine cemetery where over 9000 Americans are buried is truly awe-inspiring.

We headed west from Omaha Beach, back toward Paris where our tour would end. Paris was a wonderful and pleasant surprise. Since Ann and I were both raised in the country, our favorite places to visit are usually not large urban areas. But Paris was enchanting. Our only complaint was that we didn't have the time to explore the city properly. The things I remember best about Paris are the beautiful vistas. The view from the Place de la Concorde along the Champs Elysees toward the Arc de Triomphe, for example, is stunning. The flickering lights of the Eiffel Tower viewed from the Trocadero will never be forgotten, and Louis XIV's palace at Versailles is the grandest of all royal palaces. My favorite part of Paris was Montmartre. I think it's the most colorful part of town with the most Bohemian feel. Our short time there was marred by the fact that it was miserably crowded, but we are looking forward to returning there during the off season to see it again.

One final note about France: A lot has been said and written lately about anti-Americanism in Europe, and particularly in France. All I can say is, that I certainly didn't see it. I often hear as well, that the French are rude, but I found them to be extremely polite, genteel, helpful, and accomodating. There are some cultural differences, to be sure, but certainly not moreso than in any other country I have visited. I could write a lot more about France (I didn't even mention the food), but I'll end it here. If you are considering traveling abroad, think about France. You won't regret it!

Here's a short video to give you a better idea of all the sights we saw. Hope you enjoy it!



If you would like to see all my pictures of France click here. (Takes you to a different page).

Dave

Introduction:

Hi, and thanks for checking out my new blog. I call it Dr. Dave's Travels and Travails because, while it's mainly a travel blog, I like to talk a little about my life and work as well, in a way that I hope will be funny and entertaining. Sometimes the posts may be more about life's journey and the interesting cast of characters I have met along the way, or sometimes travel is simply the vehicle for sharing with readers my experiences with these characters. You can find out more about me by following the bio link. I am a 53-year old physician working at the Student Health Center at Louisiana State University, home of the 2007 BCS Champion LSU Fighting Tigers (so, of course, we will sometimes have to discuss LSU football). My wife of 17 years is Ann Clement Kemp. She teaches English literature at Denham Springs High School. She comes from a large family with many "colorful" individuals. They provide a constant source of amusement for me...and also great fodder for this blog. Ann and I have been fortunate enough to travel extensively in North America and Europe. I enjoy taking both photographs and videos, and I hope you will enjoy seeing them. I will be happy to answer any questions you might have about travel or any other subjects that may come up. Hope you will check back often for updates.

Dave